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>> No. 2492 Anonymous
1st March 2019
Friday 8:29 pm
2492 Uhulads
I pretty much haven't touched my guitar in over ten years. I decided to try and get back into playing it again, but give it a bit of attention first, strip it down and clean and check everythings set right.

The neck was never quite right since I bought it, the fretboard was about half a mm higher at the 24th fret than where it met the body. I decided to take it off and refit it, I think the body hasn't been machined quite level, or probably just a chip of wood stuck in there.

Soooo... I unscrewed it, and well, the one screw just came straight out with no resistance at all. Pic related.
There's about quarter to half an inch of the screw left in the body, so I can't get the neck off. Bugger.

Anyone got any suggestions?
There's a few routes I can think of. I've got some crappy screw extractors, but with just a hand drill I think it'll be impossible to get it to bite into the broken surface of the screw. I could just drill it out, but I'd probably do a really good job of fucking the whole thing up completely.

I'm thinking of going out and buying a pillar drill instead, it'll be useful in future anyway. Anyone with a bit of experience in this matter able to give me some pointers about what's the best drill I can get for £100-300? Axminster seems to have some decent stuff.I'm expecting the cheap clarke and silverline type stuff at places like machinemart and toolstation to be crap. And a brand fartool crops up on ebay a lot which is still probably shite but maybe better value.
Expand all images.
>> No. 2493 Anonymous
1st March 2019
Friday 8:59 pm
2493 spacer
>Anyone got any suggestions?

It's not as big a worry as you might think. If you balls it up, you can just drill out a bigger hole and plug it with a dowel - that'd be the proper fix if the wood had stripped and the screw was no longer holding.

If you're going to have a go with the screw extractor, I'd suggest using a punch to make a small indent in the centre of the remaining screw, then a drill bit to make a small concave divot. This will give the extractor more surface to grip and stop it from wandering. Securely clamping the guitar body down will make the job far easier. If you're worried about slipping and damaging the guitar finish, you can make a protector by drilling an oversized hole in a piece of hardboard and holding it in place with masking tape.

>Anyone with a bit of experience in this matter able to give me some pointers about what's the best drill I can get for £100-300?

Axminster are usually a safe bet. Within that budget, I'd be inclined to get a second-hand machine. Good single-phase machines usually get snapped up quickly, but you can get a real bargain if you're willing to overlook a bit of surface rust.
>> No. 2494 Anonymous
2nd March 2019
Saturday 10:50 am
2494 spacer
Was the intonation and action alright to begin with?

You probably didn't actually need to go fucking around with it. Fretboards are designed to have a certain amount of tension/relief in order to account for the scale length, bridge height, all those sorts of things. It's not uncommon to have a slight gap at the neck joint.

Could be wrong but just my two penneth, whenever I've tried to "fix" something like that on one of my guitars I've usually just made it worse.
>> No. 2495 Anonymous
2nd March 2019
Saturday 11:09 am
2495 spacer
The clearance issue caused the strings to rattle against the last fret, even though it came out of the factory with the last fret filed very low, and even after I backed the truss rod off more than I should need to.
When I bought it I didn't know enough to take it back to the shop, and by the time I learnt enough it was too late.
It's not a valuable enough guitar to worry about, they're less than £200 new, so I'm happy to fuck around with this.
It's been sat in a bag in a damp house for so long that the pickups have actually gone rusty.

Thanks for the advice.
>> No. 2496 Anonymous
2nd March 2019
Saturday 12:00 pm
2496 spacer

I think OP was probably moving in the right direction before the screw snapped. Most bolt-on guitars will end up with a shim in the neck pocket at some point to adjust the neck angle. Buzz only on the high frets even with the truss rod slack is a dead giveaway that the neck angle is wrong. Before CNC and micro-tilt adjusters came in, most Fender guitars were shimmed from the factory to fine-tune the neck angle; Taylor shim every guitar they build as a routine part of their neck angle setup.



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