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>> No. 2919 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 2:11 pm
2919 Sit-to-stand desk adjustments
I quite like the position and height of my desk but would like to stand sometimes, so I thought a sit-to-stand solution would be ideal. These can run a bit expensive, though, like the pictured for about 400 GBP.

Do you lads have any good cheap options or DIY solutions for this?
14 posts and 3 images omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2942 Anonymous
11th July 2021
Sunday 4:19 pm
2942 spacer
>>2941
>I now have to decide if it's worth standing for - evidently [...] and britfa.gs are not.
What is this heresy, lad?
>> No. 2943 Anonymous
11th July 2021
Sunday 5:04 pm
2943 spacer
>>2941
Well that's not going to last. That monitor will be back down on the desk before the month's out.
>> No. 2944 Anonymous
11th July 2021
Sunday 6:03 pm
2944 spacer
>>2943
Mate my chair broke 4 weeks ago.
>> No. 2945 Anonymous
11th July 2021
Sunday 11:46 pm
2945 spacer
>>2944
You've needed a new one for about 8 years since you last posted a pic of it, you mucky bastard.
>> No. 2976 Anonymous
28th September 2021
Tuesday 7:41 pm
2976 The image was unfortunately created for /*/, before realising /uhu/s uniqu
Office wank.jpg
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>>2944
It was a tossup between Scifi Throne and Office Wank - after 15 weeks at a standing desk, with up to 8 hours maximum stretch, I stuck with what I know and went with the latter. I still have the monitor up high and with wireless peripherals - I hope to continue using the standing function from time to time. My back hurts.

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>> No. 2974 Anonymous
26th September 2021
Sunday 3:35 pm
2974 spacer
I've had some hooks over the top of my doors for the past few months. I think either the doorframes have warped or the doors themselves have started to droop under the additional weight, as they now stick when closing.

I've tried tightening the screws that the doors are hanging on, but it's made no difference.

I'm considering two options:
1) I'm aware I could plane away an inner part of the frame and repaint, but I live in a rental flat, so I don't want to do any major carpentry that I might botch.
2) I could take the doors off entirely and rehang them using longer screws, and futz about with it until it fits nicely in the frame again.

Is there a more straight forward fix that I'm missing?
Expand all images.
>> No. 2975 Anonymous
26th September 2021
Sunday 5:41 pm
2975 spacer
If you don't want to do any major carpentry, wouldn't drilling bigger holes and using longer screws to reattach a door fall under that? Surely if you can install longer screws, you can plane a doorframe.

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>> No. 2964 Anonymous
18th August 2021
Wednesday 6:09 pm
2964 Neodymium magnets
What are some things (other than internal organs) neodymium magnets should on no account come into contact with? Are they going to fuck up my satellite dish or other assorted aerials if they get near them?
3 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2968 Anonymous
18th August 2021
Wednesday 6:55 pm
2968 spacer
What if you shot one of these from a slingshot at an armoured knight. Would the added magnetism help it to penetrate?

I'm planning a little trip and this is just the kind of information I need.
>> No. 2969 Anonymous
18th August 2021
Wednesday 7:25 pm
2969 spacer
>>2967
Slightly wrong, though. You can really piss off power supplies in equipment using moderate magnets nearby. The inductors in switch mode power supplies can be made to saturate if you give them a decent external magnetic bias - at which point they stop being inductors, turn back into a bit of copper wire, and the power supply loses regulation.
(I sort of knew this was possible, but glomming a PoE-powered piece of kit to a steel barn using magnets caused the (cheap, shitty) PoE widget to fail hot, so now I really know this. You do too.) Moving the PoE widget to the other side of the box fixed things.
>> No. 2970 Anonymous
18th August 2021
Wednesday 7:28 pm
2970 spacer
>>2969
Also - your satellite dish won't care, but the LNA on the front might if it's using a lump of ferrite to switch between polarisations.
None of these things are anywhere near as bad as eating them / sticking them up your arse (or any other orifice) / letting them slam together with any part of you in the gap.
>> No. 2971 Anonymous
18th August 2021
Wednesday 7:57 pm
2971 spacer
>>2970

>the LNA on the front
I assume that's the prong that sticks out in front of the dish itself?
>> No. 2972 Anonymous
18th August 2021
Wednesday 11:42 pm
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>>2971

The lump on the end of the prong. The round bit on the prong is the feedhorn that collects the reflected signal from the dish. The boxy bit with wires hanging out is a Low Noise Block that amplifies the signal and converts it to a lower frequency for distribution to your various boxes.

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>> No. 2952 Anonymous
6th August 2021
Friday 6:30 pm
2952 DIY supply shortages
I've noticed how my local B&Q and Wickes is running low on just about everything right now - particularly wood. I know plasterers who are paying 3 or 4 times the usual amount for materials. I wouldn't usually go into Homebase, but I did today and it was fucking well stocked with EVERYTHING but deserted of customers.

Who has stuff in stock?
1 post omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2954 Anonymous
6th August 2021
Friday 6:45 pm
2954 spacer
Homebase is shit
>> No. 2955 Anonymous
6th August 2021
Friday 6:53 pm
2955 spacer
>>2954

That's probably why nobody's bought any of their stock.
>> No. 2956 Anonymous
6th August 2021
Friday 7:07 pm
2956 spacer
Are there any small saw mills to which I could take a stolen tree, no questions asked?
>> No. 2957 Anonymous
6th August 2021
Friday 7:22 pm
2957 spacer
>>2954
I know right, that's my point - but it's full of all the stock that the other DIY stores don't have. The stores are also very tatty, they feel a bit like a DIY Woolworths - but they have stock of all the stuff.
>> No. 2958 Anonymous
6th August 2021
Friday 7:23 pm
2958 spacer
>>2956
How big a tree? Why did you steal it? What kind of wood?

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>> No. 2864 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 6:27 pm
2864 spacer
Lads. Something happened to two of the carpet tiles in my current flat, and I'd like to replace them rather than lose my deposit. I carefully took one up and found no manufacturer identification, just the number '50718' printed on the back. Googling "50718" "carpet tile" gets me sweet fuck all.

I'd rather not alert the landlord of this, so before I go asking for new carpet tiles from them, can anyone help me ID this?

Thanks lads. Thads.
9 posts and 1 image omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2947 Anonymous
21st July 2021
Wednesday 11:08 am
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>>2946
That looks really fine as a repair - no landlord is going to complain about that.
>> No. 2948 Anonymous
21st July 2021
Wednesday 11:32 am
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Well, from one cock up to another. A routine lightbulb change has gone tits up. I fucking hate these cunting downlighter things. It's now hanging out of the ceiling at an angle, the lightbulb is just flopping around inside it, and if I pull straight down I can hear the plasterboard start to strain, and I'd rather not put a massive hole in my ceiling. If I try and push it back up it just falls down to this position here.

The spring loaded 'wings' appear to be twisted from what little I can see.

Is this something I can call the landlord to sort out, or will they say it's my fuckup and I'll have to pay an electrician to come sort out?
>> No. 2949 Anonymous
21st July 2021
Wednesday 11:37 am
2949 spacer
>>2948
You just have to fiddle with the clips for long enough - doesn't need an electrician.
>> No. 2950 Anonymous
21st July 2021
Wednesday 11:55 am
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>>2949
This doesn't look right, but I can't get a better angle to look at it than this.
>> No. 2951 Anonymous
21st July 2021
Wednesday 12:27 pm
2951 spacer
>>2950
Well, I managed to free th bulb and change it but it simply won't go back up into the ceiling.

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>> No. 2934 Anonymous
6th June 2021
Sunday 3:54 pm
2934 spacer
Shedlads, I'm out of my depth.
I need to glue some perspex parts together, so was looking at some acrylic cement to get a strong, airtight join.
But I wonder, will poly cement do the same job? I already have loads of that from my little toy soldiers. I don't have any spare material to test it on annoyingly.
Expand all images.
>> No. 2935 Anonymous
6th June 2021
Sunday 5:42 pm
2935 spacer

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You'll need a proper acrylic cement, unless you don't mind the glue causing the perspex to get cloudy. Otherwise you could use superglue to do the job. Poly cement won't do it though.

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>> No. 2928 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 11:19 am
2928 spacer
Just picked these up.

Is the saw salvageable?
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>> No. 2929 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 11:24 am
2929 spacer
>>2928
Depending on what condition the teeth are in, you could probably polish the rust off and it'll cut soft wood, but I doubt it's worth it. A £10 saw from B&Q will be way better.
>> No. 2930 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 11:32 am
2930 spacer
>>2928
It should come up a treat if you replace the blade and handle.
>> No. 2931 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 12:22 pm
2931 spacer
If the teeth are sharp and straight then absolutely. If they're not then still probably.

There's loads of lads on youtube who restore tools, they're a lovely watch, but it's definitely more of a passion project than an objectively good idea when it comes to replacable tools with no sentimental value.
>> No. 2932 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 1:08 pm
2932 spacer
It's too rusted for the teeth to be sharp. Saws are sharpenable, but it's not something I'd suggest tackling unless you've got a reasonable amount of experience with sharpening chisels and plane blades. Probably not worth the effort TBH. The rest should come up fine with a bit of elbow grease.
>> No. 2933 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 1:13 pm
2933 spacer
>>2928
White vinegar and some scrubbing - maybe oil/replace some handles. Nice little haul.

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>> No. 2898 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 12:47 am
2898 spacer
So toilet seat detached itself. What kind of tool do I need to reattach it? It's some weird ass huge plastic screws.
4 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2903 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 5:27 am
2903 spacer
>>2898
Check to see if you can see where those bits come out underneath. If you can, get the cheapest thing that'll fit the spacing. If you can't, then you have a top fixing which means you'll need to shop around to find a suitable seat.

Though if you're renting, then it's likely wear and tear which means it's on your landlord to fix it.
>> No. 2904 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 9:19 am
2904 spacer
When this happened to mine there were big plastic thumbscrews on the underside that were fused closed through age/piss and they had to be undone with pliers which managed to chip a sharp piece off the porcelain which fucked my thumb up. Hopefully that knowledge helps.

>>2902
It's not unreasonable to intend to clean it once it's apart so you can get into all the inaccessible places.
>> No. 2905 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 9:49 am
2905 spacer
>>2898
We know you have a 'weird ass', that's obviously why it detached, but let's concentrate on the problem at hand please.
>> No. 2906 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 7:30 pm
2906 spacer
>>2898
Looks like the screws that hold it on are still in place, the seats just broke off completely.
As others have said get a new one, and it's probably just done up with thumbscrews underneath.
>> No. 2914 Anonymous
11th April 2021
Sunday 1:43 am
2914 spacer
>>2899

Thanks. Cleaned it up, got the cheapest one from Argos, and it works just fine now.

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>> No. 2907 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 7:12 pm
2907 spacer
What's the heat and water tolerance of your typical bit of hardened Polyfilla / generic brand spackle?

Could it survive regular exposure to hot water?
2 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2910 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 8:55 pm
2910 spacer
>>2909
I kept some dried polymer clay in water or possibly oil for a few years and it swelled up, went soft, fell apart.
>> No. 2911 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 9:19 pm
2911 spacer
There is an exterior grade of polyfilla that might be worth a try. Waterproof, think its based on cement, or cement+resin.
>> No. 2912 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 9:23 pm
2912 spacer
>>2910

Properly cured polymer clay is basically PVC, which has excellent water resistance but relatively poor resistance to oils. In the uncured or partially-cured state there'll be a lot of filler material and unbound plasticisers that aren't necessarily stable in water.
>> No. 2913 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 9:41 pm
2913 spacer
Thanks lads. I've double checked and my generic brand stuff is actually "plastic putty". It came with a hardening agent and the label claims it's water resistant. It's also hardened like rock, so I'm happy enough.

I'll let you all know if it melts in about two years time.
>> No. 2915 Anonymous
17th April 2021
Saturday 9:45 am
2915 spacer

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OP here an update: the plastic putty absolutely did not withstand exposure to regular warm water, and despite hardening like a rock, softened and came away in bits.

I've now been arsed to go to the shop and buy a proper waterproof glue and a caulking gun.

Lesson learned, don't be lazy when it comes to water and heat tolerance.

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>> No. 2892 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 11:42 am
2892 spacer
Will a 7.5W LED bulb in a 7W lamp/fixture cause problems?

The difference is small but I don't want to start a housefire.
Expand all images.
>> No. 2893 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 12:14 pm
2893 spacer
>>2892
It will be fine.
>> No. 2894 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 4:13 pm
2894 spacer

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>> No. 2895 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 5:42 pm
2895 spacer
>>2894

The house was already on fire before replacing the bulb so it would appear that it is in fact fine according to the logic of this comic.
>> No. 2896 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 5:43 pm
2896 spacer
Lamp fitting wattages used to be important in the days of incandescent bulbs which put out a shitton of heat. If you put a 100w bulb in a 60w lamp, it would get very toasty in there and possibly melt or catch fire.

With LEDs its a bit more complicated. If you've got a lamp with a separate transformer putting out 12vdc, going over the W rating could end up burning out the transformer.

But I'm guessing this is probably a mains powered lamp you've got, in which case it's hard to give a good answer as the efficiency and heat output of different types of LED bulbs varies hugely. I would say that as long as the lamp is fairly open with space for air to circulate around the bulb then there should be no problem with it.

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>> No. 2878 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 1:54 pm
2878 spacer
I want to make an electronic switch to turn another 9V current on and off. What components do I need?
7 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2886 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 9:41 pm
2886 spacer
>>2881
Watch battery won't run a relay (for very long, or at all). MOSFET or just putting your switch in the right place are sensible options.
That's assuming you're not just copying stuff from t'other place for some demented reason.
>> No. 2888 Anonymous
14th February 2021
Sunday 7:13 pm
2888 spacer

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If you're the lad from >>2882 then this should work.
But before you go modding the doorbell check the button isn't knackered and that the connections aren't loose or corroded.
>> No. 2889 Anonymous
14th February 2021
Sunday 9:38 pm
2889 spacer
Why would you take the switch connection from the low (switched) side of the solenoid? Are you trying to build an oscillator this way, to make the bell ring?
Rule 3 of electronics: Amplifiers oscillate, oscillators don't.
At least be prepared to put a capacitor between B & E , and even then, be prepared for the bastard thing to just fins a bias point and sit there burning power in the transistor until it fails.
>> No. 2890 Anonymous
15th February 2021
Monday 2:41 am
2890 spacer
>>2889
Because it's less of a pain in the arse to wire it that way when you take into account the physical construction of the doorbell and the existing wiring, and because it's a doorbell not a finely tuned SMPS.
Even if there's enough capacitative coupling in the cable to cause it to oscillate it should act as a charge pump via the B->E junction of Q1 until the base voltage gets pushed far enough below the switch on threshold to kill any oscillations.

sage because the proper answer is to replace the button and/or cable rather than mod the doorbell to work for a bit longer with failing wiring.
>> No. 2891 Anonymous
15th February 2021
Monday 5:23 pm
2891 spacer

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>>2890
The joy of electronics is that it doesn't give a damn if you're trying to build something trivial, the same rules still apply.
I think you should reduce R1 (possibly to zero), or you'll be pissing away volts across, and power into, the transistor. You want the transistor on hard. As it turns on, the voltage available through the switch will drop, as more volts appear across L1. No need for a current limiting resistor on the base, by the time the transistor is on enough to pull the bottom of the inductor to 0.6V or so, it'll all self-limit.
Bear in mind also that 9V batteries are shit. Alkalines start out at 10Ohms, end up at 1K. Make sure your doorbell solenoid won't just drain it in a couple of uses. A battery holder with 6 C cells has vastly better performance if you can find the space. (or 4 C cells, given that the pp3 will be wilting pretty much from the start).

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>> No. 2873 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 6:06 pm
2873 spacer
When carrying some furniture through to the garden, I left a ding in my stainless steel fridge-freezer door just a few mm in diameter. My girlfriend says no sane person would notice it and not to worry, but I hate causing damage and not at least trying to fix it, and it is visible from a very low angle. I'd estimate it to be 3mm - 5mm and not maybe 1mm depth at the deepest point.

What could pull out a tiny dent like this? The other side isn't accessible to pop it out. I have a feeling a standard toilet plunger would be too large to target the dent.

Would heat work, with the consideration that there's a freezer going on the other side?

I'd obviously prefer not to spend money on an expensive gizmo or cause more damage.
Expand all images.
>> No. 2874 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 6:09 pm
2874 spacer

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>a standard toilet plunger would be too large
Glue a cocktail stick to one of these jumping toy things.
>> No. 2875 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 7:01 pm
2875 spacer
Small dents like that are really tricky to pull, because there's less surface area and more plastic deformation. Your best chance is with a PDR tool (about a tenner from AliExpress). You could try just buying the puller tabs and yanking on it with a pair of pliers, which should only cost you a couple of quid.
>> No. 2876 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 9:20 pm
2876 spacer
Hot melt glue a stick to it. Pull and wiggle.
There's only a 50% chance you'll make it worse.
>> No. 2877 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 12:58 pm
2877 spacer
>>2875

Thanks, I picked up a PDR tool and might try a bit of heating and cooling first for a wiggle, as well. I'll report back the result if I remember.

I'll take >>2876 as an emergency backup option, and >>2874 as something to do if I ever find myself bored and on a desert island with these exact items and a sheet of dented steel.
>> No. 2887 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 9:44 pm
2887 spacer
>>2874
for what it's worth, don't stick these to your forehead unless you want a perfectly round hickey. Same goes for halved tennis balls. Younger me was daft.

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>> No. 2845 Anonymous
29th January 2021
Friday 12:47 pm
2845 spacer
I'm interested in buying this but it says it must be fixed to the wall, no fittings included.

How dangerous would it be without being fixed to the wall?
How would I fix it the wall?

https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-4-tier-resin-shelving/p/803362435518400
13 posts and 2 images omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2859 Anonymous
29th January 2021
Friday 8:54 pm
2859 spacer
>>2858

>I haven't used the Gripit fixings, but they do look reasonably foolproof to be fair.

I would say they are, but I have loads of DIY experience so it's hard to really be sure. The stud is always, always a better option, particularly with a desk. The bigger Gripits (blue) can hold 120kgish per fixing, but I still wouldn't be sure what would happen if you sat on a desk held up by them, there's leverage then. Or shagged on it, I don't know what otherlad does.
>> No. 2860 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 12:17 am
2860 spacer
The desk weighs 19kg lads, I can barely lift it myself - I'm just not confident of the plasterboard wall taking the weight regardless of the fixing. I'll investigate finding the studs (joists?) with magnets.
>> No. 2861 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 12:50 am
2861 spacer
>>2860

They definitely would hold, but I do understand your scepticism. The stud is always the first port of call, regardless.
>> No. 2862 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 1:52 am
2862 spacer
It must be fixed to a sturdy wall (not just screwed into dry wall without anchors) if you want it to be solid, but if can be sure no toddler will try to climb it and you follow above given advice about heavy at the bottom, light at the top you'll be ok. Pretend its Jenga and the damn thing wants to topple over, basically.

Also bear in mind that, when fixed to a wall, there'll be little flex in the structure. When that's absent, it can flex however it wants. Even if you keep your lead bar collection on the bottom shelf, you still can't use the top shelf to store heavy things because the structure is a bit flimsy.
>> No. 2863 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 1:31 pm
2863 spacer
This thread is making me wonder why you don't just buy a cheap flatpack. A steel and plastic combo would likely be more sturdy than what you're looking at, and can be found for a tenner (without delivery): https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/hyllis-shelving-unit-in-outdoor-00278578/

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>> No. 2835 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 12:41 pm
2835 spacer
What's the trick to getting a bedframe that won't fall to bits after a few years? I'm quite 'heavy arsed' and a giant so breaking beds is something I do. Low-beds are maybe one solution but there are a host of reasons why people don't sleep on the floor.

I'm specifically annoyed with the problems slats can give. Big Bear knows full well that slats break, bend or, in the case of metal, will just come off the frame.
4 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2840 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 3:18 pm
2840 spacer
>>2839
PotY nominee.
>> No. 2841 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 11:09 pm
2841 spacer
It doesn't have to be nearly a grand as >>2838 mentions, but a good bed costs money. You can build your own if you're handy around wood, but if you're buying one anything which comes as a kit with fancy nuts and bolts to screw it together is, very likely, a bunch of tosh. The metal frame shown in the picture, for example, looks exactly like the kind of trim you find on a tube framed bit of cheapo nonesense.

If you don't want to go DIY, find a (semi-)local bed maker and get something that's made of squares and screws together with plain wood screws. Then apply >>2839 and reinforce it; the entire bed should, if at all, move and flex as a single unit. Any play in the component parts will get stressed incessantly as you toss and turn during sleep. When reinforcing, bear in mind that you put more pressure on the bed around your hips and mid-torso than your head or feet both when sleeping in it and when falling into bed or sitting down/up on it, so the centre area is particularly important to reinforce.

I'm no Big Bear at *mumble* over 15st, but even I learned that slats are wear parts. It does depend on your mattress and how well it spreads your weight across them but having a half dozen or so spare at all times is a god sent. Check your bed every 3 months or so to replace slats that appear less than perfect. You can even do a rotation, move slats from near the end of your bed towards the centre and get some more use out of the centre ones near your feet for example.
>> No. 2842 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 8:19 am
2842 spacer
Just get a hammock.
>> No. 2843 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 1:40 pm
2843 spacer
>>2842
Or a waterbed. I have bloody lovely memories of staying over on a waterbed years ago, and prices seem to have dropped since I wanted one but couldn't possibly afford it. Or maybe I'm just less strapped. Either way, go try a waterbed.
>> No. 2844 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 5:18 pm
2844 spacer
>>2843

What do you do when you have to move a waterbed? Like run a hose into a bath or something? What if the bath is higher up than the bed?

Lots of questions.

Also if a waterbed springs a leak coz you're bouncing around with a fat lass or whatever you're proper fucked.

I remember sleeping on a waterbed when I was a young lad, it was alright I think. Sage for waterbed fraff chat.

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